It’s been a very long time since we’ve had a bacon post… so, I bring you my trials of bacon bandages (so far: very pleased)…

It’s been a very long time since we’ve had a bacon post… so, I bring you my trials of bacon bandages (so far: very pleased)…

This holiday season was full of Bacony goodness at the Hunter household. Among many other bacon gifts, I received a subscription to the Bacon of the Month Club. I received my first bacon, Newsom’s Hickory Smoked Country Bacon, recently. I will be reviewing each of these regional smoke house bacons as I receive them.
The first thing that struck me about Newsom’s was the bright red coloring of the meat striations. The bacon was much more fat than meat, but the meat was vibrantly colored. Then I noticed on the packaging that there Sodium Nitrite was used in the curing process, something I don’t expect from smokehouse bacon.

The bacon had a delicious smokey smell, and I was ready to forgive the Nitrites as soon as I opened the package. I cooked the bacon in a cast iron skillet over medium low heat. I should have poured off some fat half way through the cooking process, as just one slice in the pan saturated the cooked bacon with rendered fat.

The cooked bacon smelled delicious, but the salt content overpowered any of the smoke and sugar that was in the foreground of the smell. As a dedicated bacontarian, two slices with a sunny side up egg and piece of dry toast was too much for me, and I left breakfast feeling salt logged.
This bacon might be right for serious salt hounds (and will probably add good flavor to sauces), but I won’t be switching to it as my go to breakfast bacon any time soon.
My wife, the Velveteen Rabbi, has been taking a course this semester (in her ultimate pursuit of a rabbinic degree) called “Deep Ecuminism”. The aim of the course is to recognize similarities between different faiths and open opportunities for dialogue between those who follow different belief systems.
In that spirit, I’ve been thinking lately about ways Bacontarians can reach out to our brothers and sisters who keep kosher or halal. How can we share our joy in the LARD with those whose forbids them to consume pork?
I think I may have stumbled upon the solution.
Beef bacon, or as we’ve been calling it around our house – bBacon (pronounced “buh-BA-con”.)

It looks like bacon. Certainly more so than turkey bacon or various forms of tofu-related “facon”. The main visual dissimilarity comes out when you try to separate pieces of the raw meat – the fat layer on bBacon is more fragile than on pork bacon, and tends to expand into fat lacework if you pull it too hard.

It cooks like bacon. It cooks slowly, evenly and isn’t prone to scorching, like turkey bacon. It gives off LOTS of fat, if you cook it long enough to get strips good and crunchy. (Conveniently, I’d just cooked a kilo of real bacon before cooking 340g of bBacon. I saved the LARD from the former and the suet from the latter, and the volumes of fat yielded appear to be roughly proportional.)

Observant jews will eat it. No observant Muslims were available for our tests, but Margaret, pictured above, described it as “sinfully delicious, yet halakhically correct”. (No, the Velveteen Rabbi doesn’t keep kosher. She, too, is an observant bacontarian.)
bBacon is described on the package as “cured and smoked beef plate”. Beef plate is also known as “flank” or “hanger” steak, a fatty cut of meat that tastes wonderful when marinated and served as fajitas. The high fat content makes it work as a fried meat – leaner cuts wouldn’t yield sufficient fat to cook properly. The bBacon I tasted was produced by Gwaltney, a proud old Virginia-based ham producer. Smithfield, Virginia, where the company is based, claims to have produced acorn-fed ham since 1627 – Gwaltney has been a going concern since 1870, and is part of Smithfield Foods, the only Fortune 500 company I know of whose web splash page is an attractively spiral-cut ham. In other words, these people understand bacon.
And they evidently understand bBacon as well. The bBacon I tasted was smoky, but not artifically so, pleasantly salty, much less sweet than many bacons, an excellent balance of meat and fat, and, frankly, pretty damned delicious. Given a choice between run-of-the-mill, storebought, presliced bacon and bBacon, I’d likely go with the bBacon, as it cooks more consistently than most cheap bacon I’ve sampled. It’s not quite the religious experience a hand-cut piece of expertly smoked pork bacon is, but it’s not even in the same ballpark as pale imitators like turkey bacon.
Which opens some interesting questions: if it looks like bacon, cooks like bacon, tastes a whole lot like bacon, but is made of cow, not pig… is it bacon? And if so, what does this mean for our faith – nay, for our very way of life?
My loving sister-in-law and mother-in-law ordered me a salt cured, dry aged pig leg from Caw Caw Creek Pastured Pork. I first read about Emile’s pasturing technique in “Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine and Some Great Ways to Cook Them” by Peter Kaminsky, a book that I recommend to any Bacontarian.
I’m a couple of pounds into this ham already, and, after getting the hang of slicing it thin enough, I am happier than a pig in a pasture of acorns. The meat is quite salty, but not so much as to get in the way of the meaty, nutty flavors. The colors range from translucent pink to deep, dark red. The smell is slightly sweet and musky, and headily intoxicating.
When talking to Emile DeFelice it is apparent that he enjoys what he is doing, bringing great pigs to market in the US. He succinctly (but thoroughly) answered all of my questions, and was a pleasure to talk to. I like the fact that my ham came from a guy I would like to have a pint with.
Happy Hamming!
Kat and I made Bacon Cookies last night at a party as promised.
Kat perhaps did the best review when she said:
Needs gravy
They were pretty dry. Some people said they’d be great with split pea soup. They were definitely good for shock value “You’re making what???”. Probably just needed more bacon (but I already put in twice what the recipe called for).
I just received a package of Oscar’s smoked bacon from Oscar’s Adirondak Smoke House. The first thing that struck me when I opened the package of bacon was the smell. It wasn’t too sweet, it wasn’t too smokey. It smelled like pig, with a touch of smoke, salt and sweet.
Oh, and it looked nice.