Archive for the ‘Not Quite Bacon’ Category

bBacon – A review, and some theological musings

Tuesday, January 3rd, 2006

My wife, the Velveteen Rabbi, has been taking a course this semester (in her ultimate pursuit of a rabbinic degree) called “Deep Ecuminism”. The aim of the course is to recognize similarities between different faiths and open opportunities for dialogue between those who follow different belief systems.

In that spirit, I’ve been thinking lately about ways Bacontarians can reach out to our brothers and sisters who keep kosher or halal. How can we share our joy in the LARD with those whose forbids them to consume pork?

I think I may have stumbled upon the solution.

Beef bacon, or as we’ve been calling it around our house – bBacon (pronounced “buh-BA-con”.)

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It looks like bacon. Certainly more so than turkey bacon or various forms of tofu-related “facon”. The main visual dissimilarity comes out when you try to separate pieces of the raw meat – the fat layer on bBacon is more fragile than on pork bacon, and tends to expand into fat lacework if you pull it too hard.

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It cooks like bacon. It cooks slowly, evenly and isn’t prone to scorching, like turkey bacon. It gives off LOTS of fat, if you cook it long enough to get strips good and crunchy. (Conveniently, I’d just cooked a kilo of real bacon before cooking 340g of bBacon. I saved the LARD from the former and the suet from the latter, and the volumes of fat yielded appear to be roughly proportional.)

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Observant jews will eat it. No observant Muslims were available for our tests, but Margaret, pictured above, described it as “sinfully delicious, yet halakhically correct”. (No, the Velveteen Rabbi doesn’t keep kosher. She, too, is an observant bacontarian.)

bBacon is described on the package as “cured and smoked beef plate”. Beef plate is also known as “flank” or “hanger” steak, a fatty cut of meat that tastes wonderful when marinated and served as fajitas. The high fat content makes it work as a fried meat – leaner cuts wouldn’t yield sufficient fat to cook properly. The bBacon I tasted was produced by Gwaltney, a proud old Virginia-based ham producer. Smithfield, Virginia, where the company is based, claims to have produced acorn-fed ham since 1627 – Gwaltney has been a going concern since 1870, and is part of Smithfield Foods, the only Fortune 500 company I know of whose web splash page is an attractively spiral-cut ham. In other words, these people understand bacon.

And they evidently understand bBacon as well. The bBacon I tasted was smoky, but not artifically so, pleasantly salty, much less sweet than many bacons, an excellent balance of meat and fat, and, frankly, pretty damned delicious. Given a choice between run-of-the-mill, storebought, presliced bacon and bBacon, I’d likely go with the bBacon, as it cooks more consistently than most cheap bacon I’ve sampled. It’s not quite the religious experience a hand-cut piece of expertly smoked pork bacon is, but it’s not even in the same ballpark as pale imitators like turkey bacon.

Which opens some interesting questions: if it looks like bacon, cooks like bacon, tastes a whole lot like bacon, but is made of cow, not pig… is it bacon? And if so, what does this mean for our faith – nay, for our very way of life?

Caw Caw Creek Country Prosciutto

Monday, December 19th, 2005

My loving sister-in-law and mother-in-law ordered me a salt cured, dry aged pig leg from Caw Caw Creek Pastured Pork. I first read about Emile’s pasturing technique in “Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine and Some Great Ways to Cook Them” by Peter Kaminsky, a book that I recommend to any Bacontarian.

I’m a couple of pounds into this ham already, and, after getting the hang of slicing it thin enough, I am happier than a pig in a pasture of acorns. The meat is quite salty, but not so much as to get in the way of the meaty, nutty flavors. The colors range from translucent pink to deep, dark red. The smell is slightly sweet and musky, and headily intoxicating.

When talking to Emile DeFelice it is apparent that he enjoys what he is doing, bringing great pigs to market in the US. He succinctly (but thoroughly) answered all of my questions, and was a pleasure to talk to. I like the fact that my ham came from a guy I would like to have a pint with.

(Douglas happy with ham)
Caw Caw Creek Ham

Happy Hamming!

Travelling in the name of bacon….

Tuesday, October 4th, 2005

Kastrup airport, wednesday 14th of september 2005. I’m on the first leg of what will be a 2½ week trip to South Africa and London, when I casually stroll into the danish specialty food store at the airport. I see 1 kg of stripped bacon rashers in a single pack, and wonder whether this is an omen to indicate the bacontarianess of this trip. (more…)

ruminations on the baconness of pancetta

Saturday, April 2nd, 2005

A few months ago, I had a pretty clear picture of what bacon was. It was the striped, preferably fatty, lightly smoked and salted meat from the belly or back of the pig, which, when added to pretty much any dish, made it into a much desired culinary experience.

In the last few months, this site, and my related research has done much to educate me on the concept of bacon. I gradually (and might I say, reluctantly) have come to the conclusion that baconness is not a boolean (either/or) variable. Not only are there degrees og baconnes, but these degrees seem to not be the same for everyone. Wow, what a shock.

Having come to that conclusion, I have decided to try and define some bordercases that might be used to clarify, what, in my unique palate and bacontarian mind, constitutes bacon, and perhaps even more importantly, what does not. To achieve this, I decided that instead of constantly searching for better bacon, by buying, trying and enjoying a variety of meats that all, without exception, fall well within my definition of bacon, I would spend some time clarifying ome interesting border cases.

This week: pancetta

(more…)

Museo de Jamón

Tuesday, March 8th, 2005

Greetings from Madrid, the city of ham.

I’m in Spain for less than three days, as long as I stay in any place these days, but a breakneck speed at which to travel across oceans and navigate new cities in unfamiliar languages.

As consolation for my jetlag, there is ham. Lots of ham.

Walking around the city with colleagues Rebecca and David today, we stumbled on the “Museo de Jamón”, just west of the Puerta del Sol. As it is not everyday that I encounter a museum dedicated to the wonders of pork, I insisted that we stop and shoot a few pictures.

The entrance to the Museo.

Some of the exhibits of the Museo.

The Museo featured walls covered with beautifully salted and dried hams, available for anything from 7 euro to 65 euro per kilo, depending on quality, an amazingly well-stocked meat counter, and an entire ham-focused tapas bar. As David is a misguided vegetarian, we did not stop for lunch, but I plan to stop for a bacon nightcap later this week.

As we walked around town, three things became clear: - There was more than one store in the Museo de Jamón chain - The residents of Madrid really like pork - They like it so much that there’s a spanish word for a ham shop: Jamoneria.

Stopping at the “Palacio de Jamón”, having ditched my healthy companions (a veggie and a runner…), I picked up three “chiquitos de jamón”, miniature ham sandwiches. At seventy euro cents each, they’re a delicious Madrid bargain.

The ham is heavily salted, crispy but pliant, with a lovely translucence that must come from salting, the absence of cooking, and thin slicing. There’s a distinctly “piggy” taste to the meat I’m not used to either from American ham or from Italian hams. It’s wonderfully devoid of the sweetness and softness that makes American ham so boring.

Can’t wait to see what sorts of pork Madrid offers me for breakfast.